On the 30th of March members of the MCSA’s KZN section completed the first of three climbs in celebration of the section’s centenary year. The “S Route” on the Rhino, a southern Drakensberg peak, was the objective and marks 60 years since its first ascent. The route follows a ridge that bears resemblance to the letter ‘S’, although only the top ‘C’ is typically climbed. The climbers in attendance were Carl Dreyer (presiding club president), Simon Vickers, Mark McTaggart, Dave Lincoln, Wayne Goosen and Graeme Bruschi.
We hiked in on an overcast Friday evening and spent the night in Pillar Cave. Proceedings commenced the following morning, a little before first-light, at 4:30 and it became apparent Dave had endured a particularly unpleasant night, had been quite ill and with much regret was feeling in no shape to climb. Breakfast was dispatched and gear arranged beneath a clear, starry sky before setting off at 5:45. We collected water at the river crossing below the Pillar Annexe caves and then began the slog up the grassy spurs below our objective, our own Dawn Wall at our backs as the sun lit the ridge behind us.
We arrived at the base of the first pitch (of six) at 8:00 with clear skies and the hint of a cool breeze. Ropes were flaked and gear racked before Mark led up the first pitch (E3). Carl, Simon and Mark would climb as three, Wayne and Graeme as two. Graeme led the pitch for the second party, this pitch offers plentiful gear (and well anchored grass) and made for a rousing start. The stance also provided the first welcome taste of direct sun.
Carl would lead pitch two (F1) for the first team and Wayne for the second. This pitch offers somewhat less opportunity to place protection, particularly on a lengthy slab where you are soon well above your last piece. A satisfying section of friction climbing, nonetheless - from a second’s perspective, at any rate!
Pitch three (C) is also poorly protected (according to team two), but straight-forward enough and was led by Simon and Wayne for teams one and two, respectively. The pitch that follows is known as the “knife blade ridge”, what the name omits is the degree to which the inner-side of the ridge is scoured away – something you are well positioned to appreciate while ascending pitch three.
The “knife blade ridge” (D) has one crossing an initially narrow (~1.5m) line which provides a fair dose of exposure and sensational views. Mark and Graeme led this pitch. The gear is good, although as it’s mostly a traverse one can’t help but picture the resulting pendulum should one misstep. The view, though…
The fifth pitch (C), led by Simon and Wayne, finally brings the S Route onto the mountain proper. From the belay stance one has a unique view down the gulley between the ridge the route follows and the exceptional face of the mountain itself (which had the ice-climbers frothing on the possibilities, were there only a source of sufficient moisture).
Finally (but not quite) there was the crux pitch (F1), a slightly scrappy start leads one into an awkward corner with an old (seemingly bomber) piton. There is little gear at this point and you step out onto small feet, before tentatively moving up on sufficient hands and friction feet – a thoroughly satisfying sequence of moves, particularly when one has sight of Pillar Cave some 1000m below. It’s over too soon, however, as you soon round a corner and the true climbing is done. Carl and Graeme led this pitch.
From the top of the last pitch there is still ~100 vertical metres of scrambling and a short hike to the summit. We dropped our gear and made for the summit, took in the view (one of the best in the ‘Berg) and snapped some group photos. The descent was made via the East Ridge (another climbing route), abseiling off the top of the first pitch and returning to Pillar Cave to collect the gear we’d left that morning.
It was a fantastic day out, with perfect conditions and in most capable and excellent company.
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| "Dawn Wall" |
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| Scrambling to the start |
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| Mark starting up on Pitch 1 (E3) |
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| Carl belaying |
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| Carl leading Pitch 2 (F1) |
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| Wayne on the "knife blade" |
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| The ever present face... |
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| ...and the view... |
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| Summit view to the North |
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| Summit view to the South-East |
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| Simon Vickers, Wayne Goosen, Mark McTaggart, Graeme Bruschi & Carl Dreyer |
More pics here
